Diy Basement Bar

While searching for basement bar plans and designs, you’ll likely find a bunch of ad sites exclaiming “89 Home Bar Designs for Basements…” or “40 Inspirational Home Bar Designs…“. The resulting jungle of advertising is enough to drive you nuts and crash your browser… those sites display an endless series of photos (many stolen from other sites, including this one) and a one sentence blurb that seldom relates to the picture.  No plans, and certainly NO DESIGNS. Most of the photos are of over the top bars that most of us could never afford. Most of the so-called “basement bars” they show aren’t even in a basement. Basement bar designs need extra provisions to account for moisture and possible basement flooding and our designs to just that.
diy basement bar 1

Diy Basement Bar

This idea could certainly be transferred into a basement bar setup, with gorgeous results. Want the functionality and accessibility of a basement bar, but not the look of a bar in your basement? This compact kitchen/bar idea is for you. Stylish armoire by day, basement bar by night.
diy basement bar 2

Diy Basement Bar

Our plans for how to build a bar would be complete without a liquor cabinet now would they! For the inside of the bar where the fish tank sits I cut ½” plywood (2 pieces – 23”x 34 ½”) and attached it to the 2x4s on both sides of the tank area to make walls in the bar. (Picture 6b) I then made shelves using 1×2 pine screwed into the 2x4s to form the base and then ½ plywood to make the shelf itself. (Pictures 6a & 6b) I then used 1×2 pine to make rails so the liquor would not fall out of our home bar from the back of the shelf and ½ x 2 pine to make the front rail that keeps the liquor from falling out when you open the doors. You can see this in Picture 6a; it is of the left side of the bar (liquor cabinet side). Take care when making your shelf for the right side, make sure you line it up so the fish tank will be visible only, and no other space will be showing. Now you need to sand and stain the inside of the bar, and then apply 3 coats of the waterproof sealant to the wood. Finally, put in the window from the backside of the bar, it is just 1/4” thick glass custom cut for the hole in my bar (11”x 19½”) by a local glass shop. It is attached by see-thru calking applied to the back of the glass and plywood to form a tight, waterproof bond all the way around the glass.
diy basement bar 3

Diy Basement Bar

To commemorate our 10 year anniversary, we are making our Official HomeWetBar.com wet bar plans free! Yes, you heard that right! The famous home bar plans  that started it all are now free. It’s our way of saying thanks for the last 10 years of providing you with the most unique and fun items on the internet. Whether you chose to build a basement bar, an indoor bar, or modify these plans into a tiki bar, we hope you have as much fun building your own bar as we had making the original. Cheers!
diy basement bar 4

Diy Basement Bar

Building a great basement bar starts with a sturdy base. It is arguably the most important thing when building a bar, the stability of the entire bar depends on it. As you can see from picture 1a I chose to make my bar in two pieces so it could be transported if I ever choose to move. Each section is actually a little bit smaller than the main door opening in standard home so it can be moved through the door easily. NOTE: These same dimensions should work for you as well, but it would be wise to measure your door and compare it to the dimensions on the diagrams to be certain that each of the bar sides will fit through the outside door in your home. (A 30” wide doorway is required for the dimensions of this homemade bar.)
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Diy Basement Bar

Curves Some suppliers carry curved bar molding. But curves are costly; this radius corner was $150. Mitered corners are much cheaper! Prop it up for miters The underside of most bar molding tilts downward when installed. So you can’t just lay it on the saw bed when you make angled cuts. Instead, set the molding on blocks to hold it at the correct tilt. (You can lay the molding flat to make 90-degree cuts, however.) Tape the molding to limit tear-out where the saw teeth exit the wood. “Clamp” it with screws Bar molding is almost impossible to clamp in place. So do some test fitting, fastening it with screws from below. Make sure all the joints are aligned and snug, then remove the screws, add glue and drive the screws back in. Fill in dead ends The butt end of bar molding leaves you with exposed rabbets. Some suppliers sell end caps, which are easy to install but look awkward. So here’s a better solution: Run the bar molding about 5/8 in. past the back edge of the bar top. Then fill the rabbets with blocks cut from wood with a similar grain pattern. Hold the blocks in place for about a minute. After the glue has completely dried, sand the end flush and add the drip lip. The lip shown here is simply a homemade strip of wood, 3/8 in. thick with rounded edges. The photo shows it installed. Seal the end grain With bar molding, you get a large area of exposed end grain. The end grain of wood sucks up more stain than the face grain and turns out a lot darker—almost black if you’re using a dark stain. To prevent that, pretreat the end grain with sealer, which will partially fill the pores. A couple of ounces of polyurethane mixed with a couple of tablespoons of thinner (water or mineral spirits, depending on the type of polyurethane) works well. If you slop seal onto the face grain, sand it off.
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Diy Basement Bar

Our bar plans call for two layers of plywood to give it strength. The idea for the bar skin is that the interior ¾” plywood will give it plenty of strength, and the more expensive ¼”redwood exterior will give it beauty. The diy bar top is simply cut to the length of the upper horizontal 2x4s. The easiest way to measure the top is to just set the each side of the bar base on a large piece of plywood, outline it, and then add 5” to all of the front side measurements and then cut out the new dimensions. But if you are off even a little bit the top will not fit properly so I suggest you measure to the end of all of your 2x4s and compare those measurements to those on outline to make sure they are the same. You could even go as far as laying the plywood on top of the bar and using a ruler to trace lines underneath to outline where you need to cut if the other methods don’t work for you. To attach the plywood top you need to drill holes down trough the plywood into the 2x4s. Then, glue the plywood to the 2x4s and fasten the plywood to the 2x4s with 1 5/8” screws. Use clamps to hold the top down while drying. (Pictures 2c and 2d)
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Diy Basement Bar

DIYers and pros share their design and how-to tips, with photos of reader-built home bars. Learn how to build a classic wood bar top, install a beer tap and more. By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine Home bars Stone bar Build in a drip tray Bar molding tips Mock it up Steel bar Granite top Advice on tap
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Transform the vibe of a basement bar into that of a cheerful café…which happens to reside in a basement. Plenty of great lighting by way of wall sconces, some light and bright colors, and well-thought-out cabinetry and appliances makes this space feel fresh and inviting, basement or no.
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As seen on DIY’s Man Cave, a basement bar is designed to fit this homeowner’s style. A clover with the numbers 508 is painted on the floor, a jukebox is added, and a small bar area with a tv fits against the back wall.
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The interior skeleton of our diy bar is made of pine 2×4 pieces. Our home bar plans call for seventeen 2×4 posts of equal height. They should all be cut to exactly the same height, 34 ½” tall, or the bar top will not be level. They should then be attached at the designated areas (See Base Measurements and Post Positions diagram) using one 90 metal angle brace for each post to help anchor it down. In order to attach the brace to the post, mark where the post will go on the base and where the screws for braces will go on the base and posts. Drill the holes for the brace, and then attach one end of the 90 metal angle brace to the post. Next, add glue to the bottom of the post and screw the other end of the brace into the base using 1 5/8” screws. Finally, drill holes through the base into the posts from the bottom, and screw in 3 ½” exterior screws. Repeat for all posts.

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